For the past few months, Crystal Martin was on the verge of achieving a long-held dream. The granddaughter of the founder of Flintâs Barbecue, an iconic restaurant in the annals of Oakland barbecue, had been working to resurrect the family businessâin one of the original Flintâs locations, on San Pablo Avenue in West Oakland, no less.
Now, Martin says sheâs one step closer to achieving her goal, though perhaps not in the way she expected: This summer, Martin will open Flintâs as a takeout- and delivery-only restaurant that will be part of a new CloudKitchens ghost kitchen facility located in a big warehouse at 5325 Adeline Street, at the border of North Oakland and Emeryville. She just signed the lease this week.
The upshot is that, for the first time in more than a decade, customers both old and new will be able to get a hold of Flintâs Barbecueâs famous coarse-ground links, ribs and barbecue sauce on a regular basis.Â
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The decision comes, in part, because Martin wasnât able to secure the old San Pablo Avenue space after all. Her original plan was an ambitious one: The original Flintâs building has sat empty since the late â90s, and its prospective buyer had told Martin that it needed upwards of $40,000 in construction work before sheâd be able to move in. But then it seems the buyer had a change of heart, and now, Martin says, someone else is buying the buildingâsomeone who has other plans for the space.
It was a disappointment, Martin concedes. But sheâd also already started looking into alternatives. âSomething told me to prepare a plan B,â she says. âThe dream was to go back to that San Pablo location, but you know, maybe that wasnât meant for us.â
Of course, opening in a ghost kitchen isnât necessarily the ideal. According to Martin, the yet-unnamed Adeline Street facility will be home to 40 different businesses, each of them with their own little kitchen space in the warehouse. There wonât be any seating for customers; there wonât even be any signage for Flintâs outside of the buildingâthe number of other restaurants sharing the space makes that unfeasible. Customers will be able to order takeout in person, but a lot of the business will be filtered through delivery apps like DoorDash and Uber Eats. CloudKitchens, a company backed by Uber co-founder Travis Kalanick, is one of a number of so-called ghost kitchen, or virtual kitchen, companies that have expanded their operations during the pandemicâcompanies whose long-term impact on the restaurant industry remains very much an open question.Â
Crystal Martin at her Alameda commercial kitchen space during one of her Flint’s pop-ups. (HMTWNHERO)
In Oakland, CloudKitchens already runs one big ghost kitchen facility, Oakland Food Hall, in East Oakland. It has yet to formally announce the North Oakland/Emeryville project, though Martin says her understanding is that construction is well under way. (KQED reached out to CloudKitchens to confirm the details of the new ghost kitchen, but had not received a response at time of publication.)
Nevertheless, Martin is excited about the prospect of being able to finally turn the new Flintâs into a full-fledged business after spending the past year only selling her barbecue once every few months. When she opens in the ghost kitchen spaceâtentatively around July 15, Martin saysâshe plans to be open Thursday through Sunday to start out, and then eventually six days a week.Â
The coarse-ground links were one of Flint’s signature items. (Flint's Barbecue)
âItâs a good starting place,â Martin says. She wonât have to take on the risk of signing a five- or 10-year lease right out of the gate, and sheâll be able to make sure the business is profitable and sustainable before making a larger commitment. âWe do hope to someday have our own brick and mortar,â she says.
Meanwhile, Martin has raised a little over $7,000 toward opening her restaurant via a GoFundMe campaignâmoney she says she wound up using for the down payment on her CloudKitchens spot. Sheâs hoping supporters of the restaurant will still consider chipping in: She still needs to buy about $15,000 worth of equipment, including a new indoor smoker, before she can open for business.
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